Just the cabin to my knowledge

Very roughly, depending on temperature and battery degradation, the ZE 50 battery has approx 50kwh capacity, or 1kwh is 2% battery capacity. So a 60% battery will contain approx 30kwh of charge. leaving approx 20kwh available for charging. So your 18kwh to fully charge is not far off the mark and I would suggest OK My understanding is CCS is DC charging which uses the two pins under the second cover behind the charge flap. The plug above this under the first flap is a type 2 connection, which has a 7kw maximum charge from a typical domestic home charger (single phase 220v). If you have a commercial 3 phase 415v supply then the type 2 plug can charge up to 21kw as mentioned earlier. Richy

About 2000 miles with my wifes record.😁

I'm not going to get into a debate on this but the experts recon that charging little and often, keep battery capacity between 20-80%, keep capacity lower i.e 30% if left in storage, is better for battery degradation. Richy

Steve said he did 17,000 miles a year and was questioning the savings.

Being Very conversative on my approach Assuming Petrol Car, £1.40 p/litre, 45mpg, = cost 14p/mile Electric Car annual average 3.5miles/kwh , home night charge rate 6.99p/kwh = cost 2p/mile Therefore 12p/mile saving * 17000 miles = £2,040 saving / year, £170 / Month saving. I have achieved 5 miles/kwh on a gentle run in the summer and also a petrol car may not achieve 45mpg, so the saving could be more. Richy

Not dealt with this before but I think their is a battery in them which eventually goes flat then they have to be replaced, when my wheel got damaged I needed to swap my sensor onto my new wheel which the tyre fitting garage did for me. I think you have two options but never done this, you can buy an OEM sensor and get the car re-programmed to the new sensor or some aftermarket sensors are programmable and the code from the old sensor can be programmed onto the new sensor, so the car thinks its the same sensor. Maybe speak to your local tyre fitting garage, they may be able to help. Richy

No Ideas , but I didn't program my name into the car it just displayed my name, so I'm guessing it must be through the app. I did set the app up and part of that is setting the cars identity. So it must of picket it up that way. Richy

This seems like a setup issue to me. Not got OVO anytime, but the car is charging. On my Zoe I'm unable to set a maximum charge level, this as to be done through my charger (ohme), but I can restrict the charging times. I recommend, as Anne has recommended, you override the charger to charge at any time to verify the car charges as it should. then if all ok focus your attention on the charger to solve the problem. Don't forget the absolute maximum you can charger at home per hour on a 7kw supply is 7kwh.

Your absolutely right Lee, the only draw back is my car is currently displaying 111miles at 73% charge, thats 1.52 miles per %, say 1.5 miles. I don't charge above 75% and wouldn't want it to drop below 25%, so my usable capacity is approx 75 miles. That is limiting, my family run is 85 miles, probably OK in summer but not in winter otherwise my car is great. My car is an ex lease car, at approx 3500 miles, my battery degradation was 2.15%, approx 1600 miles later this had dropped by a further 0.16%, so looking after your battery definitely has a positive effect. So I agree with the point that steve is making but I tend to run my average charge level slightly higher at around 60%. Richy

OK Steve, I agree with what you are suggesting, its just the 50% did seem a little lean. The whole electric car range predictions are just so far out the window. People like myself who don't do many miles but travel in towns and cities in the deep winter don't get anywhere near what the range predictions are. By the time the heated seats, heat pump, lights and wipers have all taken their allocation of power, sitting in traffic for 20 miles a day consumers and lot more than one might expect. The 20 miles is an average also, so some days less and some days more.

HI Steve, I would like to know where the optimum 50% charged comes from, this is different to what the battery university claim in report BU-808 which states the following In terms of longevity, the optimal charge voltage is 3.92V/cell. Battery experts believe that this threshold eliminates all voltage-related stresses; going lower may not gain further benefits but induce other symptoms In table 4 of this report it identifies the 3.92v/cell as being 65% of a batteries capacity. The problem is unless you only use the car to the corner shop and then put back on charge keeping the cells around 50% is pretty much impossible. I now find the perception I have is a car with 52kw of capacity which to maintain at its optimum level only gives me 5-10kw of actual power.

Don't charge it to 100% unless you absolutely need to, it accelerates the battery degradation. you should aim for 80% maximum. My car is currently showing 128 miles at 80% charge, temperature does make a huge difference as does battery state of health. I measured my battery State Of Health last week and it recorded 97.69% at 5199 miles. My car is an ex lease car at approx 3000 miles the SOH was 97.85%, since that reading I have only charged up to around 70-75%, dropping to 40-50% before putting back on charge. I think the result speaks for itself. Richy

September 22, but what I'm saying is I don't think anything was wrong with the pre conditioning because nothing on the pre conditioning was repaired to get get it working. I think a fault logged in the ECU with something else was cleared which enabled the preconditioning to start working. My heating actually worked fine, just the pre conditioning didn't, they are both the same thing, so their couldn't of been a fault with the pre conditioning it was just disabled in the software program, which was enabled when another fault was cleared. Thats my theory anyway.

The car may have a fault code logged in the ECU which is preventing the Preconditioning from working, on my car the pre conditioning didn't work before I had an airbag fault, the car went into the dealer to get the airbag fault repaired and when it came back the pre conditioning started working. I presume the dealer reset all the ECU fault codes when the airbag fault was repaired. This is a common ploy used by manufacturers to get you to take the car into a dealer to get a fault repaired on the pretext tha tthew issue is something else. EG 51 plate mondeo boot switch doesnt work when the side door lock is in fault. same kind of thing.

I don't think you should have to get a new wheel, it unusual for leakage in the rim to go down that quickly, if you blow the tyre up then get a squeezy bottle full of water with a little washing up liquid, spray that on the tyre to see where it is leaking from, if it is the rim then you could try the tyre refurbishers, they may be able to repair it. Richy

Sorry misled you, it worked this morning, so when my car went in for the airbag repair something has changed.

Sorry cant help, My car won't even pre condition

Hi Andy Thanks for your response but It doesn't seem straight forward to me, not without causing damage, or maybe i'm reading to much into this. The photo is my front o/s jacking point, the white sill and inner cover are both plastic and don't appear to have much support obove them, the jacking point sticking down appears to be a spot welded seam with a slot in it, I think this would easily deform if a jack was placed beneath when loaded to approx 750kg (50% of the cars weight). i wondered if some kind of special tool should fit over the spot welded joint ? When I recently had a blowout I jacked the car up using a large block of wood under the front subframe, but make no mistake these cars are heavy with the load centrally positioned. The manual suggests the car cannot be lifted, I managed to find in google where the lifting points as shown were identified but this just doesn't feel right to me. Richy

Honestly all do not get to hung up on this. Here is a link to show you how to reset the range https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZjLz3LCRDSk battery state of health will be still be a factor determining the range after reset, so if after doing the reset your range is still low its worth getting your battery state of health checked. Richy